London-based make-up artist, Kemi Fadeyi of KTouch talks makeup and lipsticks for every personality, skin tone and the working woman. Side note: there’s a RED for everyone.
What general tips should we consider when choosing a lipstick or lip colour in store?
I believe that every woman should go into a store open-minded when it comes to buying lipstick. I would definitely recommend you have two essential colours: a nude lipstick and a red lipstick. The nude can range from creamy-white nudes, to creamy pink and creamy brown nudes, but the two nudes that never go wrong is a nude brown and a nude pink.
You can customise your chosen shade of nude with a lip pencil. I would suggest you have a soft-brown lip pencil to go with whichever nude shade you opt for.
The second colour of choice would be a red – this red can be an orange red right down to a purple-red. Your personality would determine how bright or how dark you’re willing to go with the lipstick. A popular red that works for almost everyone is Ruby-Woo by Mac. I think this product magically transforms into the woman’s skin tone and it can be dressed up or down just by the lip pencil that you use. It can take the look to something much softer or simply bold.
Having a nude and red lipstick is a great place to start; then going on from there, you can branch out to deep purples, soft pinks, and even a nude-orange.
It is also important to note that when you look at a lipstick, you are not taken aback by the colour like “Oh my God it’s too bright, it’s too dark…” Lip liners play a major role in softening or darkening a lip colour.
When you think of a lipstick, think “what lip pencil can I pair with this?” This is very important. Even if you are lining your lip with a colour that is very similar to the lipstick, it makes your look appear more natural.
There are a plethora of product options on makeup counters – from lip colours, to glosses, to lip sticks and crayons … How do I know what to stick to?
In my opinion I would say it is down to preference. I feel like the same way fashion (clothing) has seasons and styles, that’s how it is with makeup. For most of last year, matte lipsticks were all the rave – the liquid matte lipsticks, and then towards the autumn/winter, everybody loved lip glosses again.
However, I would choose a matte lip over a glossy lip any day.
Some people feel like lip glosses are too much work. It can easily spread and go over your lip line and it looks like you smudged your lipstick, whereas, others don’t like matte lipsticks because they feel like it’s drying and cracks a lot easier.
However, with either product, priming your lip before hand is very important.
I feel like with the lip crayons, they are easier to work with because it is just a chunky pencil – but with lipsticks and glosses, you have to be conscious of the shape of your lips and not go over.
At the end of the day, it is all down to preference. My personal preference is matte liquid lipsticks.
Product reviews…it all gets confusing
You may read a thousand views about a product – how this person found it too drying or too liquid-y, but our lips are different from one another. You will not know how the product really is for you until you try it out.
I would suggest instead that you take advantage of the samples available when you go to beauty stores (or you can order them online for some products). Most times, the shop attendants would give you a sample of the product you are inquiring about.
How would I know what shade of lipstick is best for me and my skin tone?
I do believe that trying it on is the best way to know. There is a general rule that some makeup artist follow such as lighter skin tones for nudes, pink, and darker tones for some purple and nude brown.
However, I am very much a makeup artist that works outside the box – so if I see a colour that complements the look i’m going for, i’ll try it out. If I find it a bit too harsh, then i’ll use a complementary lip liner.
Lip liners can tone things down a bit or create a colour that is completely different and more perfect for you than the original shade.
Do specific lip shapes and sizes need different techniques in applying lip make up?
This is once again down to personal preference. There’s been a trend for fuller lips (a la Kylie Jenner). To achieve a fuller lips look, you will have to draw over your natural lip line to create a new lip line which will make your lips look fuller.
If your lips are on the smaller side, you should use a lip pencil that is a bit darker than the lipstick you are about to put on, and just go slightly over your lip line; follow the shape of your lips, but just go slightly above it, and you’ll get the look you are going for.
If you don’t want your full lips to look any fuller than they already are, then a lip liner is very important. Like I said, a soft brown colour that is kind of close to your skin tone no matter what lipstick shade you’re going for. I would recommend purples as well.